TAKING PHOTOGRAPHS OF KIDS FOR  PATTERN TESTING

(Pattern: CKC Rosemary/Cordelia mashup)

In my years of experience testing patterns for my favorite pattern company (CKC Patterns), I've picked up a few tricks of the trade when it comes to photographing children in a way that highlights the outfit being tested. Since I get asked a lot how to take better pictures, so I thought I would share what I've learned so far. 

This was my very first tester photo with the company, and I was super proud of it. Looking back, it's not a bad photo but I think I could have done better, if I had a bit more experience. (Pattern: CKC Bernadette)

**DISCLAIMER: In no way am I a professional photographer, nor do I claim to possess the skills of one. I'm just an average person with a decent camera and a desire to take better photos of my children for their modeled photos. Also, while I do currently work as a designer for this company, these photos were (mostly) taken while I was volunteering to test out designs. 

Read below for a list of my top tips to taking great photos of children for testing patterns:

#1: EQUIPMENT:

A good camera is ideal! However, if you cannot afford one most high-end cell phones such as an iPhone or Samsung Galaxy have nice professional-ish photo settings. Look for a setting such as "Portrait" or "Live Focus" that automatically blurs the background to let the subject stand out.

I took this photo with my Samsung Galaxy Note 20 using the "Live Focus" feature. The only editing I did afterwards was adding a slight vignette around the outside. (Pattern: CKC Velma Sue)

#2: GET DOWN TO THEIR LEVEL

One of the most important things I learned about taking photos of children is making sure that you lower your body to the child's level, so that your photos don't look like they're taken from above.

The photo on the left side was taken at my height level, which is somewhat taller than my model's. See how it appears that I am looking down at her? Now, look at the photo on the right. I lowered my body so that her body was centered- it is a very subtle change but really makes the outfit and model stand out. (Pattern: CKC Kimber)

#3: PUT SOME SPACE BETWEEN THE BACKGROUND AND MODEL

Don't stand directly in front of your background but rather keep some distance- that way your shots have a naturally blurred background. Focus should be on your model, not the background. If your camera does not blur your background, you can always add that in later using photo editing software. 

In this photo, I was about 30 ft away from my background, which was enough for my camera to focus on the model and blur out the background. (CKC Pattern: Jaycee)

#4: USE NATURAL LIGHT

Throw the flash away! (kidding... don't do that). Try if you absolutely can to take your photos outside under natural light. And if at all possible, take any outdoor photos during "golden hour"- that is, the hour before sunset and after sunrise. This gives your photos that beautiful warm look and also reduces harsh shadows.

This photo was taken just before sunset. It was getting pretty dark, but there was such a beautiful golden glow to the sky. Coupled with the energy of the ocean, it made for a pretty gorgeous photo opportunity. (Pattern: CKC Poppy)

#5: GRAB SOME SHADE

If taking shotos midday, find some shade and have your model stand right at the edge of it- that way all harsh shadows on the face and body are eliminated but your model is still fully lit with a nice dark background. Photos taken right at the edge of a forest, or in front of an open door or covered porch are really pretty.

For this photo, I had my model stand next to a tree just on the edge of a forest. The sun was overhead but filtered by the trees. As a result, her face was fully lit but the background remained dark. This is one of my favorite places to take photos. (Pattern: CKC Rosalinda)

#6: LET THEM PLAY!

Don't make them pose- just let them just be themselves! The best things about kids are their raw expressions and carefree movement. Some of my favorite photos were taken after I stopped asking my model to "smile for the camera".

While not a tester photo, I took this one because I wanted to show off the dress I made for Christmas. It is one of my favorite photos because it shows off her sweet innocence as well as her silly personality. (Pattern: CKC Cordelia/Larkin mashup)

#7: TO THE WINDOW,  AND THE WALL...

If taking indoor photos, find a window with the most light and a blank wall and have your model stand in front of this wall. Your model will be well lit and the background will be nice and dark

#8: REMEMBER THE 10-2 RULE

A good rule on lighting is the 10-2 method. Position your model so that the sun or your light source is at a 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock degree. This position allows light to hit your model's face in a pleasing manner.

I realize my model's face is underexposed in this photo. However, it doesn't stop me from loving it. I love how the sun's rays are casting a warm glow on her face. (Pattern: CKC Zinnia)

#9: IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS

When you're testing patterns, focus in on details. Does the garment have a unique sleeve? A delicate trim feature? Don't be afraid to zoom in on the details to show them off.

This pattern's name was "Sunflower" and featured a buttonhole tie-back. I wanted to show off this feature so I got up close and personal. (Pattern: CKC Sunflower)

#10: DON'T BE AFRAID TO HOLD DOWN THE SHUTTER BUTTON

Have an energetic toddler? A high shutter speed and good lighting is your friend. I'm not ashamed to admit that when taking photos of my wild one most of the time I have to hold the shutter down and hope that in one of the thousand shots taken she will be looking at the camera. Hold down that shutter and take high-speed bursts if your camera allows it. Toddlers are energetic and move a LOT but have such a beautiful energy about them that is amazing to capture. Sometimes you just have to take as many shots as you can and hope for the best.

I absolutely love this photo. It was raining outside, and I was stressing that I wouldn't be able to get a good shot of this outfit. My model was getting cold and grumpy, and at that point I all but gave up. Then I noticed her starting to enjoy the rain- splashing in the puddles and trying to catch the raindrops on her tongue. I started snapping while she played and got some pretty cute photos. (Pattern: CKC Genesis (top) and Lolly (pants))

#11: GIVE THEM SOMETHING TO HOLD

Someone gave me this advice, and it is one of the best things I've learned about photographing small children. If you have a squirmy one, a good tip is to give them a small item to hold. This will keep them entertained and somewhat still. Flowers are a great prop and toddlers love them! And, depending how desperate I am, candy is also a great motivator.

No way this photo could have happened without that horse. None. (Pattern: CKC Cordelia)

#12: TAKE ADVANTAGE OF FREE PHOTO EDITING SOFTWARE

I recommend Photoshop Express app. It is free and lets you make so many adjustments if your shots didn't come out right when you took them. I also like adding a small vignette to my photos for a bit of drama but that is personal preference.

My model wanted to look like, "an old-fashioned lady in a painting". I went heavy on the vignette in this photo to add some drama. (Pattern: CKC Cuba (top) and Jayda (pants))

#13: SKIP THE SMOOTHING

Children's skin is naturally smooth and dewy. Avoid filters that make the skin appear unrealistically smooth. The more natural, the better!

If your model has blemishes, you can use the spot healing function in your photo editing software but please- do not blur the entire face! (Pattern: CKC Bentlee)

#14: UP THE EXPOSURE

For backlight photos, increase the exposure value so that the subject's face is illuminated, then tweak the contrast, highlights, and shadows a bit until you get a combination that looks good to you. If at all possible, shoot your photos using the RAW setting so that you preserve as much of the photo quality as possible after editing. 

I did some heavy editing on this one because I wanted to give the photograph a bit of a dreamy vibe. In this one, I had to increase the exposure quite a bit because my model was standing directly in front of a window. The camera kept wanting to expose the scene based on the window which resulted in an underexposed model. (Pattern: CKC Campbell)

#15: WARM IT UP

For photos taken on overcast days, increase contrast and slightly increase the warmth. It'll give the illusion of sunset. 

This photo was taken early in the morning just before my daughter got on the bus. It was still fairly dark outside, and also in early spring so the overall tint to the photograph was on the cool spectrum. However, increasing the temperature a bit in my photo editing software did the trick to bright it up. (Pattern: CKC Fleur)

That's it! I hope you enjoyed what *I* found to be the most important tips I've learned about photographing children. All of this comes from advice from other testers, photography professionals, as well as personal experience. I have to note that my way is definitely not the highway- when it comes to taking photos, you do you. Much like art, photography is subjective. So do what feels good to you! If you are a professional reading this, I'd LOVE to hear some things that work for you. 

RV Roof Replacement Project PART 8: Sealing the Roof and Finishing Touches

RV Roof Replacement Project

PART 8: Sealing the Roof and Finishing Touches

We finally reached the last phase of the project- sealing!!  We purchased 6 tubes of Dicor non-sag sealant for the vertical seams, screw heads, and horizontal seam, 6 tubes of self-leveling sealant that came with the Dicor roof installation kit for the rest of the horizontal places, and 4 tubes of Geocell Proflex for the vertical seams that wouldn't be covered with lap sealant. 

We started with the side bars, then worked our way around. After that was finished, we placed a dollop of sealant on every screw head, as well as a thing line around any seams. The reason we chose to do this is because we watched a video where it was recommended as an extra layer of protection. I wasn't completely sold on it because I worried whether self-leveling sealant could be applied directly overtop non-sag sealant so only time will tell if this works. Worst case, we scrape off and start over. 

Non-sag sealant on front cap

Non-sag sealant along side rails

Applied to satellite

Non-sag sealant on skylight

Non-sag sealant generously applied  to corners

We allowed the non-sag sealant to dry for 24 hours before starting with the self-leveling sealant. The next day the sealant still appeared soft which was worrisome but we thought perhaps that'll get better with time.Maybe it takes the full 48 hours to harden up, however we were told to wait only 4 hours between layers so hopefully that was okay. To make our panic even worse a quick google search landed me on a page where people complained about Dicor non-sag sealant having issues with cracking, so I am really, REALLY hoping ours will be okay. I would hate to go through all this trouble for a new leaking roof. I will update on how it went!

We had 6 tubes of sealant, unfortunately, it wasn't enough for our 33 ft. camper so we had to make a 2hr drive to the nearest Camping World to pick up more. 

The self-leveling sealant is difficult to apply and looks absolutely terrible. But, hopefully it'll do the job. 

Applying sealant is NOT the same as frosting a cake. It is UGLY.

We are done! I can't believe we were crazy enough to do this project, but I am so proud that we did. Not only did we replace the roof and fix the leak, but we enhanced it too by making it more sturdy. We also fixed the ladder and learned a valuable new skill. We can now easily replace any fixture (Fans, vent, A/C unit) which will eventually save us a LOT of money. We also have a MUCH greater appreciation for roofing professionals so if you do this for a living- hats off to you!

I hope you enjoyed this DIY project- if you attempt this on your own, be do your research and be safe. A few thousand dollars saved is NOT worth your life!

RV Roof Replacement PART 7: Reinstallation of Trim and Fixtures

RV Roof Replacement

PART 7: Reinstallation of Trim and Fixtures

This part went fairly smoothly. Luckily, everything was clean and labeled which made reinstallation a breeze. 

We started with the side trim. We applied a long piece of new Butyl tape to the underside of the trim and then matched up the screw holes on the roof so that the trim was exactly where it was positioned before. We then used new screws to reattach the trim to the roof. 

Applying new butyl tape to side trim

We then started replacing the slide covers and awning. The mistake we made was putting the slide cover back on BEFORE adding the vinyl screw cover trim back in. So later when we went to put the insert back in we had to remove and then reinstall the slide covers. Luckily, we didn't have to do that with the awning, as we could easily access the side trim from under the awning. 

Our very dangerous and unprofessional makeshift scaffolding. DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME

Side trim and canopies/awning reinstalled

The next part of the project was reinstallation of the rear termination bar. This proved to be somewhat difficult, as we knew this was the original weak spot and we wanted to get it right. Originally, the roof membrane was cut so that any water from the roof could leak directly into the interior walls, so this time we positioned the membrane so that it would run down the exterior. We also applied some aluminum tape on the corner of the roof so that any water would not leak into the interior walls. This may or may not have affected the adhesive to the roof- the jury is still out so only time will tell if it worked. 

Rear of RV ready for rear termination bar

Installation of rear termination bar

After installation of the rear termination bar we replaced the vinyl trim, making sure to tuck it under the termination bar at the ends. 

We then moved onto the rest of the fixtures. This part was also pretty easy, and we had everything (A/C included) up within an hour. 

We then finished the day off by reinserting the rest of the vinyl trim. Since our ladder hadn't been secure yet, we had to, um, improvise. Do NOT do this at home. 

One very dangerous way of putting things back on the roof

Making sure the vinyl trim is tucked underneath before metal trim is screwed down. 

We then worked on the ladder, which we saved for last because it uses 8-pointed spider screws, something that we couldn't find a dedicated tool anywhere to remove. Internet to the rescue! I read that you can use a square bit to remove them and lo and behold, it worked!

Square bit alongside spider screw

One thing that was really bothersome when we bought the RV was how loose the ladder felt. Not only did we discover that the ladder was attached by rusty screwed to 1/8" plywood at the top, but the pieces that attached the ladder to the RV were not completely screwed in, causing the ladder to sag downwards. So dangerous!

To fix this we removed the ladder from the RV, unscrewed those metal pieces and then accessed a screw from the side that originally faced the RV wall. After tightening that screw, we then reinstalled the ladder and it felt incredibly strong. 

The final phase of our RV roof replacement project is next!

RV Roof Replacement PART 6: Installation of new TPO membrane

RV Roof Replacement Project

PART 6: Installation of New TPO Membrane

For some reason, we thought this step would be easy. I mean, what could go wrong with simply slapping on some adhesive and covering it with your new membrane? Well, we messed up. And it almost cost us the entire project.

For this part, we bought a flat broom and a painters kit which included a pan and a roller. We also bought a Dicor-brand TPO membrane from Amazon along with a Dicor EDPM/TPO membrane installation kit. Our plan was to position the membrane on the roof, roll it out to make sure it was enough, apply adhesive, and then re-roll the membrane on top of it. 

The first part went off without a hitch. We placed the membrane on the roof and carefully unrolled it. We had plenty (our camper is 33' and we bought a 35' membrane) so we carefully rolled it back up and started on the adhesive. 

An important note is that we started rolling the adhesive about a foot from the front cap with the plan to finish this part at the very end. One of us began rolling our adhesive on in generous amounts while the other unrolled the membrane. We quickly learned that you absolutely CANNOT walk on the membrane after applying as the membrane would bunch up and create a horrible patch that was full of bumps. So, after rolling on the membrane, the broom was used to press the membrane onto the adhesive and to smooth out any bubbles.

The BIG mistake that we made was that after initially rolling it out, we neglected to make sure that we rolled it back up perfectly straight. As a result, the membrane started to go on at a slight angle, and we would've been in BIG trouble if we got to the end and there wasn't adequate overhang to reattach the side bars. We couldn't start over because the membrane was already covered in adhesive. So, what should've been a fairly easy job of unrolling the membrane became one of the biggest stresses of the entire project. Thankfully, we ended up having just enough on either side so we escaped a MAJOR bullet. 

Mostly-completed roof

After reaching the end, we slashed an "X" into the rear bedroom window and made our escape out of it and waited a few hours to let the adhesive dry.

"X"'s cut into membrane over openings

We later returned to roll the adhesive onto the front part of the roof. We ran into a problem where we couldn't decide whether to install the roof OVER the front cap, or UNDER it. We watched a few videos that swore by placing it OVER, as in theory any water that gets under the front termination bar will simply slide off the top and not travel under the front cap. The original membrane was installed UNDER the cap so we had to make the decision to try something new or keep it as is. Fortunately, that decision was made for us when we realized we couldn't get the new membrane under the front cap so we ended up placing it over. 

Rolling on the rest of the membrane

RV Roof Replacement Project PART 5: Cleanup time!

RV Roof Replacement 

PART 5: Cleanup time!

This was the most time-consuming part- we had to remove all of the butyl tape, silicone, and lap sealant from all of the items removed from the roof. It may have been overkill, but I believe that starting with a clean slate is the way to go in reducing future leaks. Plus, it made installation a lot easier as there was less mess. 

Butyl tape is pretty much like chewing gum- difficult but not impossible to remove. I found that by scraping off as much as possible with a flathead screwdriver, followed by a generous amount of scrubbing with mineral spirits and a cloth, resulted in a nice clean piece. 

Removing Butyl tape from trim

If there was any mold, I wiped it with a product called LA's Awesome cleaner, a product I forgot to mention in the previous post that I used to clean the edges of the RV roof that had gotten gross from the rotten wood. The product is truly awesome! 

I then took all the pieces outside and washed with a dish detergent, rinsed, and allowed to dry in the sun. They all looked fantastic and almost like new!

We also ordered new vinyl screw cover trim to replace the old ones that had gotten moldy.

A comparison of the new and old vinyl trim

Next up- new TPO membrane!

RV Roof Replacement PART 4: Installation of New Roof Plywood

RV Roof Replacement Project

PART 4: Installation of new roof plywood

This was a big day for us. As I mentioned in Part 3, making the decision to replace the entire roof instead of the damaged areas was not a fun decision. We knew that it would require a lot of additional work, but we wanted to do it right as we had already come so far and really, REALLY did not want to do this again in a VERY long time. Since it would have taken a tremendous amount of effort to chisel away the entire roof from the Styrofoam insulation we decided to simply use liquid nails and screws to attach an additional 1/8" piece of plywood overtop the original 1/8" roof in the areas that were undamaged. We would then place TWO layers of 1/8" plywood over the areas that were completely removed. 

However, we ran into another hiccup: our local hardware store did not carry 1/8" plywood so we were forced to travel 3 hours roundtrip to one that did. We also purchased a product called "Great Stuff Pro Spray Foam Adhesive" that was recommended by someone on a YouTube video. It appears to only be available online, so we had to wait a bit for this one to come in before beginning the roof replacement.  Our plan was to use the great stuff to attach the new boards to the Styrofoam below (this product is Styrofoam safe!) and then use liquid nails for the rest. 

Great Stuff is kind of an expensive investment, as you not only need the product (roughly $17 a can and we used two for he two 4x8' plywood boards that were replaced) but you also need the gun ($50) and cleaner ($8). However, this product is absolutely terrific- you only have about a 10 minute window to apply the foam before needing to adhere the roof so you have to work quickly. 

Great Stuff foam being applied over the Styrofoam.

After placing the replacement board, we put some concrete blocks on top to press it down. We allowed the Great Stuff time to dry before starting the next layer. 

Using blocks to hold down board

We then moved onto the front of the RV. However, we unfortunately ran  into a MAJOR problem- because the original roof was so thin, when we were removing the damaged wood from the front of the RV the metal joist below gave way and the roof sunk about 3 inches down. Unfortunately, because the metal piece was attached to the inside of the ceiling, the only way we could fix it was by somehow gluing it from the top. This was the second time where we panicked, and almost gave up. However, after some time brainstorming ways to fix the collapsed roof we came up with an idea- we ended up spraying more of the amazing Great Stuff Pro (and no, I am not affiliated with this company but I cannot sing their praises enough!) by sticking the nozzle of the gun underneath the Styrofoam and then immediately running to the inside where we attempted to push up the roof from the inside by climbing onto the dropdown bed and pushing up with our legs. It was hilarious and was a LOT harder to hold to hold the position for 10 minutes than we thought, so we ended up rigging up a board to push it up.

Us, literally trying to raise the roof

A much easier solution

We left the board in place for several hours and hoped for the best. When we returned we discovered that it actually worked! The roof was no longer sagging and was now perfectly aligned on the top side. We then moved onto the new boards. 

After replacing the damaged areas, we began the process of replacing the wood on the rest of the roof. This process was actually fairly easy, because we simply laid the boards on top of the roof, drilled a hole, and then used a hand saw to cut out the openings. For the vents we used a special tool meant for cutting circles. 

Cutting out the new holes

We then covered the edges of the holes with aluminum foil tape- this was something we noticed was done on the original roof and since we didn't have a single leak to any of the fixtures we definitely wanted to do the same thing.

Foil tape on the new holes

We then added liquid nails to the old wood and quickly placed the new boards on top. We noticed that even though we were well under the 10-minute window of time that the manufacturer suggests, the glue was starting to form a skin very quickly. We did the best we could, but noticed that some of the areas did not feel like they were fully adhered to the wood below. For these spots we used a staple gun and placed as many staples as we could. We then added screws on each corner as a secondary measure. 

We then replaced the radius trim and used staples to securely attach to the sides, covering all seams with seam tape to soften the connection between the metal trim and the roofing below. 

Seam tape on edges

Roof is complete!

In hindsight I wish we had completed the entire roof with the Great Stuff  instead of the liquid nails. We were dismayed to find that the liquid nails did not adhere as well as the Great Stuff, and I believe that this was not necessarily the fault of the liquid nails. The Great Stuff, being a foam, sealed the gaps that were between the 2 layers of wood. Even though the 2 layers of wood were theoretically right on top of each other I feel like there was still a little bit of a gap between them. The liquid nails may have been too thin to grab onto both boards. As a result, we had to our a nail gun to staple the heck out of the boards, then used screws in every corner to hopefully keep the boards down. It wasn't what we wanted but in the end the roof felt a LOT more sturdy and we were incredibly proud of the result. 

Keep reading to see what was next!